Thursday, November 26, 2009

Perfume families Perfume making techniques and Raw materialsTo extract fragrances

7 Perfume families

The Comité Français du Parfum has classified the vast range of fragrance combinations into seven major families, each divided into subgroups. This classification applies to perfume products for women and men alike. In many cases, word order varies according to manufacturer, e.g. woody spicy or spicy woody, floral oriental or oriental floral.

The Citrus family (also called hesperide) comprises essential oils obtained from the zest of citrus fruits such as orange, bergamot: citrus, floral chypre citrus, spicy citrus, woody citrus, aromatic citrus.

The Floral family is predominantly composed of flower fragrances, e.g. rose, tuberose etc. soliflore (also called single-fragrance floral), lavender, floral bouquet, floral green, floral aldehydic, floral woody, floral fruity woody.

The Fougère (or fern) family, despite its name, does not reproduce the smell of ferns, but features blends of woody and lavender notes. Fougère, soft amber fougère, floral amber fougère, spicy fougère, aromatic fougère.

The Chypre family, named after the perfume Chypre created in 1917 by François Coty, is comprised of oak moss fragrances blended with floral or fruity notes. Chypre, floral chypre, floral aldehydic chypre, fruity chypre, green chypre, aromatic chypre, leather chypre.

The Woody family is more suited to men and contains sandalwood, cedar, patchouli and vetiver. Woody, woody citrus coniferous, woody aromatic, woody spicy, woody spicy leather, woody amber.

The Amber (or oriental) family is warm and powdery and often has vanilla accents. Floral woody amber, floral spicy amber, soft amber, citrus amber, floral semi-amber.

The Leather family is the most masculine and evokes the smells of tobacco, smoke and leather. Leather, floral leather, tobacco leather.

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Perfume making techniques and Raw materialsTo extract fragrances from flowers, plants or other natural material as efficiently as possible and to fulfil the exponentially increasing demands of the market, perfume makers, throughout history, have developed a variety of extraction and conservation techniques to obtain the purest and most highly concentrated forms of raw materials.

Advances made in modern chemistry allow natural smells to be reproduced in laboratories.

Perfume making techniques
The distillation
The distillation technique is based on the ability of steam to capture essential oils. This technique was first used in Antiquity but was perfected by the Arabic civilisation in the 8th century AD and is still used today in traditional perfume making.… read more : the distillation
The absorption
The absorption technique is based on the ability of animal fat to naturally absorb odours. Depending on how well the plant matter withstands heat, this process can be conducted at either hot or cold temperatures… read more : the absorption
Extraction using volatile solvents
Extraction using volatile solvents consists of dissolving the fragrance-bearing part of the plant in a solvent which is then evaporated. This technique was practised in the 18th century using ether… read more : extraction using volatile solvents
Other Perfume making techniques
Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction consists of using a carbon dioxide by-product as a solvent. Since this solvent is much easier to eliminate production costs are lowered… read more : other Perfume making techniques
The raw materials
The raw materials of plant origin
The raw materials of plant origin used in the composition of perfumes come from all over the world and are selected for their quality and originality… read more : the raw materials of plant origin
The raw materials of animal origin
The raw materials of animal origin are considerably less well known than those of plant origin and are now almost systematically replaced by synthetic products so that no species are threatened. For ecological reasons Parfumerie Fragonard no longer uses any raw materials of animal origin… read more : the raw materials of animal origin
Synthetic raw materials
Synthetic raw materials form the basis of contemporary perfume making. Since the mid-19th century, modern chemistry has enabled the perfume industry to develop so as to fulfil the qualitative and quantitative expectations of the global market.… read more : synthetic raw materials

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